Two days, 196 kilometers, and the endless silence of the North.
Sometimes you don't have to travel far to feel like you've left the world behind. My latest bike trip took me into the northern borderlands of Austria—a region where time seems to tick a little slower and nature literally explodes in April.
Day 1: From Vineyards into Solitude
Retz – Hranice | 114 km
The journey begins relaxed with a train ride from Vienna to Retz. Stepping off the train, I’m greeted by a warm, sunny April day. The first climb leads gently through nature, away from the hustle and bustle. What strikes me immediately: the silence. No engine noise, only the constant chirping of birds celebrating spring.
The landscape opens up wide. The fields are buzzing with activity—but not from humans. Deer, pheasants, and hares frolic in the mild sun. The route is a mix of fine gravel and lonely asphalt roads.
Pro Tip for Riders: Pack enough water! In the tiny, sleepy villages along the border, open shops or public fountains are hard to find. You are largely on your own here.
The encounters you do have are all the more heart-warming. Farmers planting potatoes pause to give a friendly nod; even the few car drivers raise a hand in greeting. Late in the afternoon, I spontaneously decide to head for accommodation in Hranice, Czech Republic. Tucked away in nature, the day ends perfectly: a wide view of the sunset and a well-deserved Czech beer.
Day 2: Along the Iron Curtain back to the Danube
Hranice – Krems | 103 km
After a hearty breakfast, the second day starts on historic ground: the Iron Curtain Trail. I am completely alone on deserted forest roads. Every now and then a deer darts across the path, but otherwise, the forest belongs to me. This absolute isolation is wonderful, but it also means that the return to "civilization" in Gmünd feels almost like a small culture shock.
However, the peace quickly returns. The stretch between Gmünd and Zwettl is once again blissfully empty. I let the pedals spin as fields and dense forests pass me by. After a short stop in Zwettl, the next highlight awaits: the Ottenstein Reservoir.
The hilly landscape of the southern Waldviertel challenges the calves one last time, but from Gföhl onwards, the reward follows. It’s almost entirely downhill—a fast-paced finale that feels absolutely earned after all those meters of climbing.
Arriving in Krems, I wind down on the banks of the Danube. My legs are heavy, but my head is clear. I hop on the train back to Vienna, the images of the lonely border roads still echoing in my mind.
Conclusion
If you’re looking for solitude and don't mind hearing nothing but yourself and nature for miles, you’ll love this route. It’s a tour of contrasts—between gentle vineyards and the rugged hills of the Waldviertel.
Total Distance: 196 km
Highlight: The silence on the Iron Curtain Trail.
Vibe: Pure, expansive, decelerating.
